MAMACOCA,
p. 2
LIMA
AIRPORT. The hustle-bustle of a noisy crowd. Confusion.
Groves
is met by an embassy official at the arriving passenger gate. He and
the official walk through the bustling airport to an awaiting Cadillac
limousine. A military jeep with four soldiers follows the limousine
close behind.
Charles,
carrying his backpack, is seen at a ticket window. The agent informs
him that the bus trip to Cuzco will take approximately two full days.
He
boards the bus and takes a place in the rear. At one of the stops
along the way, a number of Indians climb in, laden with colorful array
of baskets, carpets, and packages. Among the crowd is an American
girl, a luscious blond, carrying a backpack. She moves to the back
of the bus and boldly takes a place next to Charles.
The
ride is long, and the two have a chance to get acquainted. Clare tells
Charles that she is from Cincinnati and that she is a Peace Corps
recruit assigned to San Ramon. She has already been in Peru a year.
Charles tells her his story. The two seem to like each other and amuse
themselves by observing the other bus passengers.
A
conference at the U.S. embassy. Present are several US officials,
a number of Peruvian government people, and some uniformed members
of the military junta that rules the country. Groves is explaining
the US proposal to control Peru's coca production, in exchange for
which the US will agree to subsidize Peru's other crops, such as coffee,
and offer credit for military equipment.
The
next to speak is a Peruvian professor and government advisor who gives
his academic opinion. The Indian population has used coca for many
centuries and is a very important part of Indian culture. The professor
suggests that government control might only decrease the poor peoples'
share of coca, but would have little bearing on the continuance of
the cocaine trade. The cocaine trade is too powerful to take second
place to the Indian market.
A
Peruvian government spokesman states that it is the responsibility
of the US to improve control of cocaine in its own arena. US control
of coca in Peru would be dangerous and difficult, if not impossible,
in a country where armed resistance is already in fact of life. Similar
problems would arise in Bolivia and Columbia, also large coca producers.
Arguments follow.
In
the silence of the mountains, Lorenzo Matraca and his llamas move
along in a completely different time frame.
The
bus is now deep into the interior on an incredible mountain road.
Charles observes an Indian passenger chewing coca. He offhandedly
tells Clare about the crazy plan of the US government to eliminate
the coca crop of Peru which he learned from a drunken US official
on the plane by the name of Groves. Clare's countenance changes. She
asks Charles to repeat the man's name. Groves. Charles is surprised
by her inquisitiveness and asks suspiciously why she wants to know.
She avoids an answer.
Sunset.
Groves and two Peruvian officials are arguing inside the limousine,
racing on the mountain road with its ubiquitous military escort hardly
managing to keep up the pace. The official convoy overtakes the sluggish
old bus, almost forcing it with blaring horn and flashing lights to
the edge of a precipice. A few bus passenger curse the speeding limousine.
Charles makes a crack at the arrogance of American diplomats.
Nighttime.
Inside the bus. Most of the passenger have fallen asleep. Clare, fatigued
from the long ride, closes her eyes and lets her head rest on Charles'
shoulder. He reaches in his backpack, pulls out a blanket, and carefully
places it over the two of them. Charles wipes the fogged window next
to him and stares out into the blackness. It the distance he seems
to spot a flicker of light.
By
the light of a small fire, Lorenzo, high in the mountains, is squatting
motionless.
The
following morning. The main plaza in the village of San Ramon. The
bus inches forward to a stop amidst the noisy market crowd. Men and
women vendors, mostly Indians, squatting or sitting on the ground,
selling crafts, churrasco, chicarrones. Others weave alpaca wool.
Loaded donkeys and llamas with jingling bells. Shouts and laughter
of children. A whole section of the plaza is taken up by busy coca
leaf sellers.
Charles
and Clare are approached by several eager vendors as they walk through
the crowd toward an early colonial hotel, the only hotel in the village.
On the other side of plaza is the old Jesuit mission of San Ramon.
Parked
in front of the hotel are the limousine and the military jeep. Soldiers,
with submachine guns dangling, sit on the front steps smoking.
In
the lobby of the hotel Charles sees Groves, salutes him, and then
introduces Clare, whom Groves pretends not to know.
Charles
goes to the desk to register. Clare lingers behind briefly and whispers
something quickly to Groves. The desk clerk observes the exchange.
Having
registered, Charles and Clare make a date to go out on the town after
they rested and freshened up. They part in the corridor, each going
to a respective room.